Sal

Sal Cape Verde (Sal is Portuguese for “salt”) belongs to the northern group of islands, called Barlavento. The island is 35 km long by 12 km wide. It is one of the three sandy eastern islands of the archipelago (Sal, Boa Vista, and Maio). The island is dotted with colourful, cobbled towns, like Santa Maria on the southern shores.

The terrain

The island is flat and sandy in the south. In the north there is a more mountainous terrain, with the remains of old volcanoes. The approach to Santa Maria from the airport can be a little off-putting, but there is plenty of interest to explore on this island. This includes the former salt works at Pedra de Lume and similarly the lava rock pools and the Olho Azul (Blue Eye) at Buracona. This natural grotto is made out of black basalt, so the lighting effects are fantastic. On the coast at the north end of the island there are rugged, weather-worn valleys with crashing waves. These areas are only accessible off-road.

Santa Maria

It is the most developed of all the Islands in terms of tourism. Santa Maria is the main resort. Here there are trendy surf shops, colourful cafés and restaurants together with banks, a health centre, hospital, post office and all types of stores. The town also has pretty squares lined with al fresco cafés. To the back of the town behind the Cazu supermarket, you can find the salt pans (Salinas). The salt they once produced was how Santa Maria first developed. The salt was loaded on ships at the town pier.

The beaches

The main attraction though, are the beaches. The main beach in Santa Maria stretches along the coast for 8 kilometers. It is over 200m wide in places and forms a semi-circle of white sand and azure blue waters. There is a wide choice of water sports to enjoy, either as a beginner or an expert. For sports such as windsurfing and kitesurfing the months between November and May are when the winds are strongest. The peaceful beach at Praia de Igrejinha just to the east of Santa Maria is considered good for swimming and snorkelling with interesting marine life. Shoes are recommended there as it’s rocky. The shallow natural pool/lagoon is suitable for children.

Ecology

Marine life around the coast of Sal Cape Verde is plentiful with countless species of tropical fish, such as parrotfish and angelfish, groupers, barracudas, moray eels and, with luck, manta rays, sharks (including the nurse, tiger, and lemon), dolphins and turtles. The deep Cape Verde waters offer volcanic lava forming sheer cliffs revealing caves and cracks full of tropical fish. From May to November, due to the lack of wind the water is very clear with visibility can be up to 40m.

Culture

Live music plays a huge part in Cape Verdean culture and is often performed live in various bars in Santa Maria in the evening. During a stay there the subtle rhythms and the delicate melodies of the mornas and the driving waves of the Funana seep into you. You’ll hear them all over the islands, out of car windows, on the radio and in the clubs and bars in the towns. Eventually, you get hooked to it and find yourself swaying, wiggling and wanting more. This is a unique experience and one not to be missed.

Food

Fresh fish is readily available on Sal. On or near the Santa Maria pier, you may find locals selling groupers, tuna, sera and even barracuda and sword fish. Fish will also be available on most restaurant menus. Some restaurants specialise in seafood although availability may be dependent on the catch that day. Meat is available including chicken, pork and beef. Fresh fruit and vegetables are available in shops although there is usually a bigger selection in the market. You may also see people selling fruit on the streets. Two local Cape Verdean dishes – cachupa (a stew) or buzio (shellfish) are also to be found on menus in restaurants. Vegetarian and vegan food can also be found in restaurants.

The climate

The island is flat and desert-like and there is almost no rain making it very arid. The little rain that does fall is limited to brief heavy showers. Instead of the classic four seasons, the Cape Verde Islands only have two: The Tempo das Brisas (time of the winds) from October to mid-July and the Tempo das Chuvas (rainy season) from August to September. However, ‘rainy season’ is not really an accurate description, because in many years there is very little rain. The sun shines 350 days a year and the daytime temperatures range between 21°C and 34°C. The sea in the summer season stays in the mid to high 20s. In winter the minimum water temperature is usually 23°C, more than warm enough for swimming.

What to expect

It is important to note that much of Cape Verde is relatively poor. Some of the restaurants are fairly basic, but they serve good food. Some areas are still developing and so in some places roads are not completed yet. Taxis are relatively cheap and plentiful and if you are more adventurous you could try an ‘Alugar’ where you sit in the back of a pick up (or now sometimes its a minibus) with local people.

The beaches are a big attraction. They are extensive and so there are many spots where you can completely escape. Tropical Resort is almost exactly in the middle of the 8km white sandy Santa Maria main beach. The weather makes Cape Verde an ideal place for a beach holiday.

In conclusion…

Sal Cape Verde is a place of dramatic contrasts, from its sapphire-blue seas and porcelain-white sands to its honey-colored lunar landscape in the north. As soon as you set eyes on it, you can’t help but be captivated by its mismatched charm. Dive head first into water sports or simply sink into the 8km of duvet-soft sands that dissolve into the translucent waters. With its many kilometers of beaches and its endless list of water sports, Santa Maria probably offers the most ideal conditions for a classic ‘beach’ holiday.